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A Different King of “Báng Tráng” – or Rice Paper Wrapper

Sat, May 12, 2012 | 10 Comments

posted in: Asia, Restaurant Reviews, Travels | tagged as: Asia, vietnam

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Rice paper.

Most of the English speaking world use that term to describe the edible wafer-thin papery sheets made of rice flour, water, and sometimes tapioca starch, and dried on cross-hatched straw to give it a distinctive weavy pattern. They are used to make Vietnamese summer rolls or deep fried for spring rolls.

But all my life, I’ve known it by its Vietnamese term: Báng Tráng. It’s one of the few Viet words I know – the others, of course, are also food related. Those are the words that I seem to retain the easiest. No matter the language.

“So where should we eat tonight?”

I love this question when traveling. There are so many new restaurants and street vendors to explore. In Vietnam, it wasn’t just the never-before-tried-foods that were exciting because even the familiar foods took on a whole new level of food exploration. I’m convinced that the food tastes better in Vietnam not only because everything is so fresh (bought daily from the early morning markets) but also because it’s served with the proper accompaniments – unlike in the U.S. or in Dubai when a lot of omission or substitutions have to be made.

“There is this place famous for its bánh tráng,” suggests my mom’s friend.

Sure, I thought. I like bánh tráng, I’ll go along for the ride.

(And ride I did! A very nerve-wracking first time on the back of a Motorcycle, nervously pressing my lips together, tightly gripping the driver’s waist to the point of possibly cutting off her breathing and circulation, even at speeds of only 20km/hr, feeling very vulnerable without the protection of airbags and seat belts, constantly wondering if my helmet would offer any protection from a crash every time we navigated a ridiculously large round-a-bout with traffic rules I didn’t understand or weaved in and out of traffic.)

When we arrived at the restaurant (safe and sound but it took a while to peel my lips apart), we chose a table outside on the sidewalk and as we settled into the stools, my mom and her friends began to discuss what to order.

Banh Canh

Banh Canh restaurant

The restaurant seemed to operate out of two seating areas separated by about 20 feet of space so the wait staff shuttled food back and forth between the two store fronts.

Banh Canh 2

Waitress shuttling plates of herbs

We ordered the specialty of the place and when the báng tráng arrived, it was very different from what I expected. First it was folded in quarters and second it needed no re-hydration at all. The báng tráng we use from the U.S. are dry sheets of rice paper and need to be reconstituted in warm water then used right away or else it turns to mush.

Third, it did not have the characteristic cross-hatch pattern.

Banh Trang

A different kind of Bánh Tráng (rice paper wrapper)

They remind me of defrosted spring roll pastry in their ultra thinness and springy texture. But these báng tráng did not need to be deep-fried as they would be eaten raw.

Bánh Tráng filling

Bánh Tráng filling

At this restaurant, there seemed to be only two meat fillings to choose from – both of the pork variety. My mom tried to explain to me that one cut is from the upper leg and the other is the lower leg, possibly the shank. We chose the mixed platter. Then you can choose the size of the platter – for 1, 2, or 3 persons.

The thinly sliced pork for the báng tráng filling came with these accompaniments: thinly sliced pickled daikon (white radish) and carrot, pickled pearl onions, mung bean sprouts and this amazing basket of fresh herbs.

fresh herbs

fresh herbs

I recognized some from my mom’s herb garden and others were completely new to me. My favorite that night were the young mango leaves. Tender and lemony, they added a subtle tang to my báng tráng rolls.

Assembling the Bánh Tráng

Assembling the Bánh Tráng

I followed my mom’s lead on assembling these báng tráng rolls (using our hand as a plate) first the lettuce, then fresh herbs and pickle, and then the meat.

Assembling the Bánh Tráng 2

Assembling the Bánh Tráng

Finally it is rolled tightly, a tad haphazardly as I had to do it in mid-air, and ready to be dipped into the all-important Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc mam cham), which provides the “dressing” for this rolled up salad.

Banh Trang dipped in Nuoc Mam Cham

Banh Trang dipped in Nuoc Mam Cham

I enjoy making and eating báng tráng rolls because I can personalize the fillings to my own liking. The flavors of the pork mixed with crunchy fresh herbs and tangy pickles makes for a great combination.

For drinks, I noticed that Schweppes soda water served over lots of sugar and ice seemed to be a popular drink in Vietnam. Sure enough, my mom’s friend ordered a few glasses for the table but it was too sweet for my taste.

soda water with sugar

Soda Water with Sugar

It seemed that no meal in Vietnam was complete (at least for us) without a bowl of noodle soup so we ordered a few bowls of the restaurants name sake Bánh Canh Trang Bàng. My mom explained to me that “Bánh Canh” is the name of the soup and “Trang Bang” is a province in southeastern Vietnam. The restaurant’s name also includes “Út Dung” which could be the owner’s name.

The rice noodles used in the soup were round and about 1/4-inch thickness. The broth was made with a pork stock and served with pig feet and fresh herbs. I tend to eat just the meat off the pig’s feet and discard the skin since the texture and flavor of boiled pig skin in this form never appealed to me.

Noodle soup with pig's feet

Bánh Canh - Rice Noodle Soup

Slurping down the noodles and soup in between making báng tráng rolls, I wondered if I would ever learn the background and secret of how these rice paper wrappers were made or if I would ever experience eating them again outside of Vietnam.

*   *   *   *   *

Bánh Canh Trang Bàng Út Dung restaurant: 441 Nguyen Tri Phoung, Phoung 8, District 10, Saigon.

Banh Canh

Banh Canh restaurant


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About Sandy

I’m Sandy (aka “Ginger”), married to “Scotch” (not his real name).
 
I believe that it’s not just noodles we are creating, but memories, traditions, and a sense of pride.
  
I believe in slowing down, relishing time spent with our children and loved ones, and bonding through shared noodle-making experiences.  Read more...

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  1. Abigail-mynappytales says

    Wed, May 23, 2012 at 8:30 am

    the wrappers are completely different from the rice papers I’m usually eating they seem to be pancake-like.
    Yummy!

    Reply
    • ginger says

      Thu, May 24, 2012 at 12:04 am

      Yes, they were more pancake/crepe like. Wait to you see the other rice paper wrappers in future posts…

      Reply
  2. Katherine says

    Sun, May 20, 2012 at 7:05 am

    Your descriptions are as vivid as your photos and I’m getting hungry!!

    Reply
    • ginger says

      Thu, May 24, 2012 at 12:02 am

      I try, I try….

      Reply
  3. aw says

    Fri, May 18, 2012 at 4:58 am

    Love this post. How beautiful those herbs are! How fresh everything is. I love summer rolls, but there’s no place in NYC that serves authentic Viet food. Thanks for sharing!

    Reply
    • ginger says

      Wed, May 23, 2012 at 11:59 pm

      Growing up in NYC, I loved the Viet food there (Nha Trang in Manhattan’s Chinatown was my fave) but that was before I visited Vietnam and was spoiled by the options, freshness of the food, and of course it goes without saying, the authenticity.

      Reply
  4. Tram says

    Thu, May 17, 2012 at 4:23 am

    Too funny, we ate there, too!! It was our last dinner in Vietnam and I also had banh canh. We also went to Quan Oc Dao – our first dinner in Vietnam and it was Brian’d best meal in all of South East Asia. Hahaha 🙂

    Reply
    • ginger says

      Wed, May 23, 2012 at 11:56 pm

      That is too funny! Oc Dao was Brian’s best meal?! I’m in shock – he must really love snails!

      Reply
  5. Peace of Iran says

    Thu, May 17, 2012 at 3:18 am

    Oh My GOODNESS! These are one of my all time favorites 🙂 I especially like to dip them in a spicy peanut sauce. I’ve never made my own though… it looks like so much fun!

    Reply
    • ginger says

      Wed, May 23, 2012 at 11:53 pm

      It’s easy to make your own if you can get your hands on a packet of rice paper wrappers. You can use the traditional accompaniments of boiled shrimp and pork or substitute chicken. Then add fresh herbs (like mint) and dip in peanut sauce or nuoc cham and voila!

      Reply

About Me

Family PhotoI’m Sandy (aka “Ginger”), married to “Scotch” (not his real name).

I believe that it’s not just noodles we are creating, but memories, traditions, and a sense of pride.

I believe in slowing down, relishing time spent with our children and loved ones, and bonding through shared noodle-making experiences.  Read more…

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